It took a little longer than I would have liked to write this review, always worried things will get a bit hazy if I don’t get it down soon after the event. Thankfully, this was a meal I wasn’t going to forget, and for all the right reasons.
Thomas by Tom Simmons has become quite a regular posting by other reviewers/bloggers we follow on social media, never seemingly criticised, and always held in high regard by those that know. Plenty of times I have gone to book but the time was never right, I wanted to be in the right headspace, I didn’t want to go just for the sake of a review.
Walking in you’re immediately met with the bar area, the layout didn’t seem a million miles away from when it was previously The Cameo Club, however the fixtures and fittings certainly have. 2 tone colour scheme walls that continue throughout the restaurant, the bar is beautifully lit and has a touch of art deco about it. There was nobody at the bar, the 5 empty cushioned stools crying out for someone to join them and relax with a good spirit, or one of their ample wines, another time perhaps.
After we have been taken to our table, our server kindly takes our coats, this is a first for me, a nice touch which if I’m honest, shouldn’t be a rarity. The menu is well laid out with 6 starters and 7 mains, there’s also a ‘For The Table’ section which you should give your undivided attention…basically I am telling you to order several things from here.
Our choices were the Ground Bakery Bread and house butter (heard good things about this) and the Fried Chicken with Lime Mayo. Now the Ground Bakery is literally next door, other than being baked on the premises it’s not going to get any fresher. Served as a kind of large cob, it’s cut into 4 (so you get equal amounts) and comes with mushroom butter and their house butter, I preferred the latter as I am not a huge lover of mushrooms, I ate both.
It’s only bread and butter you might say, but sometimes there really is nothing better than a soft bread with a firm crust and a nicely salted butter smeared across it, or a mushroom butter in fact, and as bread and butter goes this offering is as good as you’ll find.
The Fried Chicken is excellent, as good if not better than any I have had before, and who would have thought that Lime Mayo would elevate to a place you didn’t think possible? Tom Simmons did, that’s who, and that’s why he does what he does. If I had to be super picky, some of the pieces had very little chicken and a lot of coating, however when the coating tasted that good I am not even sure if that’s a criticism. I’d eat that fried coating all day long.
For main I had the Fillet of Welsh Beef & Mushroom Tartlet at £33, yes more mushroom, I’m trying to convert, I also added a Green Peppercorn sauce. At this point the old adage ‘Taste, don’t eat‘ will serve you well, you can’t rush this, your palette won’t allow it. Every mouthful is divine, your mind making a mental note to remember just how good this is as your knife glides through to cut the next piece. There’s a lovely char to the top of the beef that provides texture and depth of flavour, the permanent grin on your face likening it to an audition for The Joker.
The Green Peppercorn sauce is everything you want it to be and accompanied the beef perfectly, I took my servers recommendation and she wasn’t wrong.
I’d love to tell you more about the mushroom tart but I would be kind of guessing as to what made up it’s parts (other than mushroom) what I will say is this…it was delicious and the tart itself perfectly crisp and super thin.
Seating is fairly close in the restaurant but this actually works in your favour, everytime a table sits down you purposefully eaves drop as to what they are ordering, whenever a dish comes out you side eye it to see what you are possibly missing, stopping short of asking for a bite. When you hear someone order what you’ve had you feel like a proud expectant parent, and listen in for their approval as they eat…sorry, taste it.
Wine – I had a lovely Chardonnay De L’Ardeche to wash all this down with, so easy to drink and really refreshing, £34 a bottle or you can buy it by the glass. Small isn’t featured on the wine list but you can ask for it.
My dining partner ordered the Welsh Lamb Cannon with Black Garlic, came out looking like a cover photo for the Michelin Guide, all positioned, dressed and cooked with purpose. Beautifully cooked.
Sides consisted of the infamous Tom’s Chips and Glazed Carrots with spiced seeds. These chips are golden, crispy, and are layer after layer of fluffy goodness, seasoned to perfection.
The Glazed Carrots are cooked just how I would like them, not too hard, just still with that bit of bite without losing their form. Again taste incredible, and the seeds providing a contrast in texture but also adding to the overall flavour of the dish.
Both these sides married perfectly with the beef, 3 individually stunning dishes that can stand out with balanced flavour in their own right, also coming together to make a truly memorable taste experience.
The beauty of this kind of cooking, clean, precise and perfectly portioned is that when it comes to dessert there is no question as to whether you have room for one. I am not saying you are left hungry, far from it, you just don’t feel stuffed, you feel well fed, content, ready to try more. Eating food like this isn’t a chore, and it leaves you wanting more. You don’t come here to wolf something down and disappear in to the night, you savor it, you converse between courses, you just relax and enjoy the experience.
I digress, for dessert we ordered Peanut Butter Parfait with Banana, Chocolate and Peanut Brittle £10 and Petit Fours, Salted Caramel Truffles and Seasonal Pate de Fruits £7
The Peanut Butter Parfait was smooth and creamy as you would expect, the brittle had the perfect amount of ‘crack’ not chewy and didn’t shatter. The peanut butter flavour never becoming ‘too much’ balanced just right, the different textures and temperatures of each part combining to be the best dessert I have had in a long time.
My experience that evening was one that will certainly linger, it’s not every day you get to eat food this good, this well loved. The service here is good, very good actually, it was busy as they are most nights yet you are never left wanting, check backs are made, more drinks are offered, they are attentive without being over bearing. Glassware and cutlery are super clean, cutlery is replaced and matched to your meal accordingly, time between courses is perfect. The overall ambience is spot on, appropriate music at a good level, lighting is spot on as is the temperature. My only negative (and it’s a small one) I found the chair really uncomfortable, the single wooden back dug in to me everytime I leaned back, resulting in me sitting bolt upright the whole time, hey it’s good for your posture right?
Thomas by Tom Simmons is a restaurant you need to visit at least once, just to see how food can really taste when everything combines, quality local ingredients, a chef with passion to deliver excellence and a skill level higher than most. I will certainly return (when the wallet allows) it’s not a cheap dining experience and nor should it be, but it’s worth every penny, this is special, savor it, and remember…taste, don’t eat.