It’s been a couple of months since my last review on the blog, had a little break from what seemed a series of mediocre dining experiences. I was craving a full ticking of boxes, the kind of meal where you leave with a smile on your face, and a feeling of satisfaction of having been looked after by people that know what they are doing.

Needless to say, I found this at Heaneys.

Heaneys opened in 2018, 5 years of hard work by Tommy Heaney, his partner Nikki, and their team have firmly established the restaurant as one of Cardiff’s premier culinary destinations. Nikki even sporting her new ‘Heaneys’ arm tattoo that day, an acknowledgement to herself (in her own words) of what a big part of their lives the last 5 years have been.

We attended on a Sunday, so were dining from their Sunday Lunch menu served 12pm – 3pm. From the second you walk in you feel relaxed, a welcome that felt more like seeing a friend than a slightly stressed server. Calm and in control.

The dining area is over different levels, open and airy at the front, bags of light coming in from the glass frontage, to more hidden corners towards the back, the seating style changing slightly depending on where you sit. Mostly a mix of blues, greys with some wall art and wood floors and tables, it’s a modern relaxing environment, music is eclectic and at the right volume.

Their use of lighting and the placement of large indoor plants show they have really thought about the restaurants ambience and feel, it really works. Tables are presented with minimal fuss and perfect placement, particularly loved the cutlery holders.

Once you have ordered, you are brought some complimentary warm Sourdough bread and Marmite butter, I was starving at this point so it was a surprise and welcome gift. I’m not a huge fan of Marmite but the beauty of this butter was that it is a scaled down version, less harsh and I couldn’t get enough of it, the bread itself was fresh, soft with a lovely crust.

I had ordered an Italian Pinot Grigio Riserva, Mezzacorona at £6.90 for 125ml, I really enjoyed this, it was light and refreshing and very easy to drink.

From the ‘snack’ section of the menu we chose the Buttermilk Chicken with fermented Chili, the chili leaving a lovely tingle on the lips and the chicken itself cooked perfectly with a wonderfully crips coating. I urge you to squeeze the lime wedge garnish over the chicken before you set about devouring it.

My starter was the Fishcake with Red Curry and Lime, beautifully presented, the cake itself comes as a sphere rather than the coaster style shape you may be used to from your local chippy. It’s a good size, breaking through the golden coating you are presented with lovely flaky fish which is well seasoned and not overly ‘fishy’ which works for me. The curry is mild and provides a nice balance and touch of moisture to the dish, lovely.

For the main event I went with the Dry Aged Beef, served pink on a bed of creamy mash with (I believe) Oxtail Croquettes and a Yorkshire pudding. The veg that followed were cabbage with glazed carrots, roast potatoes and cauliflower cheese, you are warned not to touch the latter as they have come straight from the oven.

Combined, this was a Sunday dinner that looked every bit as good as it tasted, the carrots cooked with star anise, cinnamon and honey were stunning, the roast potatoes how you always wish they are, crispy on the outside, sprinkled with sea salt and fluffy inside. The beef itself was tender and….

don’t say it…….

melted in the mouth! Well it did, and no one wants to be chewing on a tough piece of beef debating whether to spit it in to a napkin. You get plenty of gravy to add at your leisure, it’s rich, flavoursome and perfect consistency.

My partner had the lamb which received equal accolades. I’ll be honest, I was slightly worried a Sunday dinner from a restaurant like Heaneys would leave me hungry, not fulfilling that traditional full up slump that it is obligatory to feel afterwards. I needn’t have worried, the portions are good, contain everything you want to see on your plate, while retaining refinement, every element just screams quality produce and skillful cooking.

To finish I had Dark Chocolate Mousse, Vanilla, Blood Orange, Minus 8 vinegar. Rich, indulgent, smooth, creamy, insert all the buzz words here because it had them, the brittle was a delight and created that balance of texture. The ice cream giving a contrast in temperature and adding palate cleansing freshness. My partner choosing the Yoghurt Parfait, White Chocolate, Mango, Passionfruit, equally as stunning.

At £35 for 3 courses you will struggle to find food of this quality, cooked with this level of skill for less. I mean you’ll pay that at your office Christmas party in a chain pub somewhere.

Heaneys is a restaurant that understands the fundamental principle of hospitality, from the moment you walk in you know they are here to provide the customer with a great experience. The service is perfect, the time between courses is perfect, the ambience they have created is perfect. It’s fine dining that’s relaxed, effortless. Everyone is welcomed straight away, service is attentive but you’re left alone to enjoy it, professionalism runs throughout from top to bottom.

The servers know their job, subtle touches I observed which are seemingly becoming all too rare. Heaneys has propelled itself as one of my top 3 favourite restaurants, everything is done right, which is how it should be after all.